Day 4: A hot climb through forest with bamboo, creepers, huge trees (and leeches!) up the steep sided valley of Myagdi Khola to Dobang at 2,500m. We're camping in a forest glade with a soundtrack of crickets, waterfalls, rain and, earlier, rolling thunder. Just now a glimpse of the rose coloured peak of Dhaulagiri through the clouds as the sun sets. Spirits are high.